Notes from the bench

Making & process · Oct 2026

Prong Setting Diamonds Without Chipping

Seat depth, matched burr rotation, and star-pattern tightening that protect 0.3 to 3ct diamonds from table chips during wholesale prong setting.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Spruing Thin Rings: Gate Size That Stops Shrinkage Voids

Thin 1.2 mm bands trap shrinkage voids at the sprue base. Our foundry gate size, angle and two-gate rule for casting slim rings without pinholes.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Lost-Wax Burnout: How Hold Time and Temperature Set Each Other

A bench-level burnout curve for sterling silver, brass and 3D-printed wax: ramp rates, hold temperatures and how long each flask actually needs.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Stone Girdles and Seat Cuts: How to Fit a Moissanite Into a Custom Ring

Moissanite girdles vary 0.1-0.2 mm within a labeled size. Seat depth, culet clearance, and girdle thickness measured on the bench.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Final High Shine Steps on the Polishing Bench

Tripoli, rouge, and burnisher sequence plus buff speed and pressure numbers that deliver a jewelry-grade mirror before rhodium plating.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Casting Shrinkage and Tolerances in Sterling Silver

Sterling silver shrinks 1.5-2% between wax and finished ring. Compensation, tolerance stack, and size-adjustment math used on every run.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Bench Grit and Files: The Surface Prep Stages Between Casting and Polish

From coarse knife files through 600-grit sandpaper, the bench prep stages that decide whether high polish actually holds on a cast ring.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Investment Powder Basics for Jewelry Casting

Water-to-powder ratio, vacuum pull time, burnout holds, and slurry measurements that stop pitting and grain on silver and gold castings.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Burnout and Flask Temperature at Pour

Ramp rates, hold minutes, and pre-pour flask temperature that cut carbon residue and thermal shock on silver, 14K gold, and brass castings.

Making & process · Oct 2026

Barrel Finishing vs Hand Polishing: Surface Finish on Production Jewelry

Barrel finishing trims cast flash and deburrs in bulk. Hand polishing delivers high shine. The two-stage finish we run on 925 silver.

Buying guides · Oct 2026

Choosing Ear Wire Materials When Your Ears Are Sensitive

Nickel is the usual culprit. We compare surgical steel, titanium, niobium, 14k gold, and sterling silver for sensitive ear piercings.

Stones & grading · Oct 2026

Rhodium vs Rhodium-Free Finishes for White Jewelry

Wear months, nickel-release limits under REACH, and cost math behind choosing rhodium plating versus palladium white gold on wholesale orders.