Materials & Craftsmanship
Know What You Wear
We lay out the real differences between metals and stones — no marketing, just bench truth.
Metals
| 18K Gold | PT950 Platinum | 925 Silver | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Density (g/cm³) | 15.5–17 | 21.4 | 10.3 |
| Melting point (°C) | ~920–960 | 1,768 | ~890 |
| Vickers hardness (VHN) | 120–180 | 95–120 | 60–80 |
| Relative price ($/g, approx.) | $40–$60 | $50–$80 | $0.8–$1.2 |
| Color | Warm yellow / rose / white | Cool white, patinas softly | Bright white, tarnishes |
| Best for | Everyday rings, vintage | Heirloom, wedding bands | Designer pieces, not daily wear |
| Care difficulty | Low | Low | Medium (polish regularly) |
| Allergy risk | Low (if alloy is nickel-free) | Very low | Medium (copper alloy can irritate) |
Stones
| Moissanite | Lab-Grown Diamond | Natural Diamond | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mohs hardness | 9.25 | 10 | 10 |
| Refractive index | 2.65 | 2.42 | 2.42 |
| Dispersion (fire) | 0.104 (high, rainbow) | 0.044 | 0.044 |
| Thermal conductivity | High | Very high | Very high |
| 1ct-equivalent price | $300–$800 stone | $1,500–$3,000 | $5,000–$15,000+ |
| Certification | GRA | IGI / GIA | GIA / IGI / HRD |
| Market acceptance | Growing, budget buyers | Mainstream, ethical buyers | Heirloom, resale |
Craftsmanship
Lost-Wax Casting
Process: 3D-print wax master → invest in plaster → burn out wax → pour molten metal → clean and finish.
Time: 2–3 days. Best for: Most custom rings, detailed designs. Pros: Fine detail, quick iteration. Cons: Slight shrinkage; requires hand finishing after cast.
CNC Machining
Process: CAD model → mill from solid metal block → hand finish.
Time: 1–2 days. Best for: Geometric, machined-look bands. Pros: Precision under 0.05mm, consistent. Cons: Less hand-wrought character.
Hand Setting
Process: Drill seat → seat stone → raise prongs/beads → polish under microscope.
Time: 1–2 days per piece. Best for: All fine jewelry. Pros: Secure, adjustable, long-lasting. Cons: Requires a trained setter (Ivy, 15 years).
Common Myths, Busted
False. Yellow gold never changes color, but it scratches and wears. White gold rhodium plating wears in 18–24 months and needs re-plating.
False. Moissanite is a real mineral (silicon carbide) with its own optics. It is a different stone, not an imitation — like sapphire is not a "fake ruby".
False. Platinum costs 1.5–2x more and feels heavier, but it scratches more visibly. If you love light, warm jewelry, 18K gold is the better choice.
False. Cut quality and setting matter more. A well-set 0.8ct looks bigger and brighter than a poorly set 1.2ct.
How to Choose
On a budget under $1,000
925 silver or 18K gold with moissanite. Prioritize a clean setting over a large stone.
Everyday engagement ring
18K yellow gold or platinum, low-profile setting, lab-grown diamond 0.8–1.2ct.
Heirloom wedding band
PT950 platinum, comfort fit, plain or with a subtle brushed line. Designed to last 50 years.
Statement / evening piece
18K rose gold, colored gemstone, or pearl. Occasional wear — you can afford detail over durability.