A customer returned a gold-plated chain after six weeks: the clasp was brassy, the high points of every link had flashed through to the base, and the retail customer wanted a refund. The factory's invoice said "gold-plated." It never said how many microns. In plating, "plated" is not a specification. It is a starting point, and the micron count is what decides whether your product survives three months or three years.
What the micron numbers mean
Electroplating deposits a measured layer of metal onto a base. Common gold plate runs 0.5 to 2.5 microns on fashion jewelry; "heavy gold electroplate" approaches 2.5 to 5 microns; solid gold vermeil, as defined in trade guidance, requires a minimum thickness of around 2.5 microns over sterling silver. Rhodium plating on white gold typically runs 0.5 to 1 micron, because rhodium is applied mainly for color and reflectivity rather than durability. Every extra micron adds cost, but it also adds measurable service life.
Wear is not uniform. High-friction surfaces—the inside of a ring shank, the edges of a clasp, the top of a ring's shoulders—abrade fastest. A 0.5 micron plate on a ring shank can wear through in weeks of daily wear; the same 0.5 microns on a pendant that never touches skin friction may look fresh for a year. When you specify a run, ask for thickness on the contact points, not the average. We cross-hatch plate measurements with an XRF or coulometric thickness check at three spots per piece: high-wear, mid, and protected.
Why plating wears through predictably
Plate fails in stages. First, the high points dull because the plated layer is polished away faster than the low points. Then the base metal begins to show through on edges. Finally, the layer breaks through completely at the friction point. Nickel and copper base layers, common in fashion plating, show as a darker or warmer flash-through than the original tone. That is also the stage where contact-sensitivity issues surface, which is why regulation of nickel release matters under EU REACH nickel provisions for items intended to touch skin. A thicker, well-bonded plate slows that breakthrough and keeps the barrier intact.
Bonding matters as much as thickness. Poor surface prep—grease, oxidation, or buffing compound trapped under the plate—causes the layer to peel in sheets rather than wear smoothly. We prepare plated pieces with an electroclean, acid dip, and strike layer before the final deposit, so the plate adheres metallurgically instead of sitting on top. A 1.5 micron well-bonded outlasts a 3 micron poorly struck plate almost every time.
What to write on your PO
Specify target micron thickness per component, the measured thickness on contact points, the base metal, and whether nickel underplate is permitted (many EU markets restrict it). For rings, ask for a thicker deposit on the shank. For white gold pieces, note that rhodium is a cosmetic refresh layer and schedule re-plating in service agreements rather than promising it will never dull. Pair plate specs with a controlled finishing stage, because a poorly polished base finishes through plate faster. And remember that plating thickness affects finished weight tolerance only slightly, but it absolutely affects perceived quality at 60 days.
Measurement location matters as much as the number. We record plate thickness at three points: a high-wear contact spot, a mid-surface, and a protected recess, because an average of those three can hide a shank that is half the target thickness while a decorative edge is over-plated. Over-plating also costs money: every extra micron on a pendant that never touches skin is metal the buyer pays for but the customer never sees. Specify thickness by zone, not part-wide average.
For programs that also repair or resize pieces after plating, note that cutting and re-finishing strip the plate locally, so service work should always include a re-plating touch-up rather than shipping a half-plated repair. This connects to how we treat shank welds versus remakes: a repaired shank must be re-plated to match the original surface, otherwise the repair shows as a brighter patch.
FAQ
How thick should gold plate be for everyday rings?
For rings worn daily, specify 2.5 to 5 microns on a solid or sterling silver base. Below 1 micron, plan on visible wear within weeks at the shank.
Does rhodium plating protect white gold?
Rhodium mainly brightens and unifies color; it is too thin (0.5 to 1 micron) to be a durable wear layer. Expect re-rhodiuming every 12 to 24 months on worn pieces.
Can you measure plate thickness in production?
Yes. We use XRF or coulometric testing on sampled pieces, recording micron readings at high-wear and protected spots so each lot has a documented thickness, not just a "plated" label.
Want plate thickness written into your spec? HOLYCOME electroplates to documented micron targets on contact points, with nickel-free options and XRF-verified QC reports. Send your design for a custom manufacturing quote.
Frequently Asked Questions
What gold purities and platings do you offer?
Solid 10K, 14K and 18K, plus gold-filled and vermeil. Plated fashion lines use 1–2 micron PVD over brass or 316L.
How do I avoid mislabeling gold products?
Label by construction: solid, gold-filled, vermeil or plated. Mislabeling plated as vermeil is the most common compliance complaint in this category.
Can you stamp karat marks?
Yes. Every solid-gold and vermeil piece is stamped with karat and maker marks, which supports customs and resale claims.
What is the MOQ for gold lines?
50 pieces per design for stock settings; custom CAD work starts at 100 pieces.
