An accessories brand in Toronto walked into an OEM relationship assuming the factory would read their mood board and produce. Two months later they had three samples, none matching the reference, and a $1,400 invoice for CAD rounds that were never authorized. The failure was not the factory. It was the handoff: no spec sheet, no tolerance for stone size, no written approval loop. OEM jewelry manufacturing is a real service with a real workflow, and the buyer who shows up with the right documents gets a program that ships on time. Here is what that workflow looks like from our floor.
What OEM actually covers
OEM (original equipment manufacturer) means you bring the design, we bring the bench. You own the CAD file, the SKU, the brand, and the customer. We own the casting line, the setting benches, the plating bath, and the QC stage-gates. The line between OEM and private label is thin: private label usually means we suggest designs for your brand; OEM means you brought the design and we execute it.
A real OEM scope covers:
- CAD modeling from your reference, sketch, or 3D file
- Wax printing and lost-wax casting in your chosen alloy
- Stone setting (prong, bezel, pavé, tension)
- Polishing, rhodium or gold-flash plating
- QC against your spec sheet
- Branded packaging and DDP export
The handoff document that prevents 90% of stalls
Before we open a CAD ticket, we ask every OEM buyer for a one-page spec sheet. If you do not have one, we build it with you. It lists:
| Field | Example value |
|---|---|
| Metal & karat | 925 sterling silver, rhodium plated |
| Stone type & size | Round brilliant moissanite, 6.5mm, GRA |
| Setting type | 4-prong, 1.5mm prong width |
| Finish | High polish, inside comfort-fit |
| Weight target | 2.8g +/- 0.3g |
| Ring size range | US 5-9, half sizes |
| Plating thickness | 0.5µm rhodium |
| Packaging | Black box, branded insert, GRA cert |
When this sheet is signed by both sides, the CAD team builds to it. When it is missing, every sample round becomes a negotiation. The handoff document is the single highest-leverage artifact in an OEM program.
The sample rounds you should expect
A normal OEM program runs three sample gates before bulk:
- Wax approval (day 3-5): A printed resin/wax model. You check proportions, not finish. Cheap to change.
- First metal sample (day 12-15): Cast, set, polished. You check dimensions, fit, and stone security. One revision round is normal.
- Pre-production sample (day 22-25): Off the actual production tree, plated, packed. This is the piece the bulk order must match. Sign it in writing.
Buyers who try to skip the wax approval and approve only the metal sample pay for it twice: a revision at metal stage costs 5-7 days and usually a re-cast, because the wax tree has already been destroyed.
Tooling ownership and what happens at the end
One of the most overlooked clauses in an OEM agreement is who owns the rubber mold and the CAD file. Our standard terms: on final payment in full, the CAD file is released to the buyer and the rubber mold is held by us on the buyer's behalf. If you leave, you can take the file to another factory, but you will pay a small mold-replication fee to cut a new rubber tool.
This matters because buyers sometimes assume the mold physically ships. It usually does not. Confirm in writing what "tooling ownership" means before you sign.
Decision guidance by buyer type
First-time brand (under 5 styles): Start with 2-3 hero SKUs, not a full collection. The handoff document is harder to write for ten styles at once. Prove one line, then extend.
Growing DTC brand (5-15 SKUs): Lock a quarterly production calendar. We block casting trees in advance and you pull-to-order. This cuts lead time on reorders by about 40%.
Wholesale / chain buyer: Move to a rolling forecast agreement. We pre-cast wax components and hold finished settings. Your reorder window drops to 5-7 working days, and unit cost falls 12-18%.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between OEM and private label jewelry?
OEM means you supply the design and the factory executes it. Private label usually means the factory suggests catalog designs for you to brand as your own. OEM requires a spec sheet; private label starts from existing tooling and ships faster.
How many samples should I expect before bulk?
Three gates: wax approval, first metal sample, and pre-production sample. One revision round at the metal stage is normal. More than two revisions usually signals the spec sheet was unclear.
Who owns the CAD file when the program ends?
Under our standard terms, the buyer owns the CAD file after final payment. The rubber mold is held by the factory on the buyer's behalf. Confirm this clause in writing with any supplier.
What MOQ does an OEM program start at?
We open OEM programs at 20 pieces per style for custom 14k gold work and 30 pieces for sterling silver. Reorder floors drop to 15-20 pieces once sell-through is proven.
Can I use my own stones in an OEM program?
Yes, but we usually recommend we source them. Buyer-supplied stones add incoming inspection time and complicate the RMA process if a stone fails. We will accept consignment stones with a documented incoming count.
Key takeaways
- OEM is a handoff problem. A signed spec sheet prevents 90% of sample-round stalls.
- Run three sample gates (wax, metal, pre-production) and approve each in writing.
- Confirm CAD ownership and mold custody before signing the agreement.
- Start with 2-3 hero SKUs. A ten-style launch in month one almost always overruns.
Send us your sketches, references, or CAD files; we will come back with a spec sheet and a sample timeline within 48 hours. See our OEM workflow, browse the moissanite catalog, read the buying guides, or review our QC stage-gates.
Sterling silver terminology used in this guide follows the Wikipedia entry on sterling silver.
