A accessories label in Amsterdam handed a supplier a 14k gold earring CAD in January, paid 50% upfront, and in April received 800 pairs where the post angle was off by three degrees — the earrings sat crooked on every ear. Nobody had approved the printed prototype. OEM jewelry manufacturing works only when each gate is signed off. This is the gated workflow we run, and the approvals you should demand from any factory you shortlist.
The six gates of OEM production
Every custom order moves through six gates. Each gate has a deliverable you sign off. If your supplier collapses two gates into one email, you lose your chance to correct problems cheaply.
Gate 1 — CAD engineering review
The incoming CAD is checked for manufacturability: wall thickness, prong size, stone seat geometry, shank comfort. We return a revised engineering CAD within 3 working days, with notes. Roughly 30% of buyer-supplied CAD files need a tweak before they can be cast — that is normal, not a defect in your design.
Gate 2 — 3D printed resin prototype
A castable resin print is produced and physically shipped to you. You confirm fit, look, proportions. This is the cheapest correction point in the whole process. A 5-minute change here saves a 5,000-piece recall later.
Gate 3 — metal sample casting
One piece is cast in your actual alloy (925 silver, 10k/14k gold), set with your chosen stones, polished and plated. You approve this sample in hand. This is the gate the Amsterdam buyer skipped, and it cost the whole run.
Gate 4 — tree building and bulk casting
Approved sample locks the parameters. A casting tree of 60–120 pieces is built, burnout-scheduled and cast. Alloy is verified by XRF before the furnace lights.
Gate 5 — setting, polishing, plating
Pieces are hand-set (never pressure-set for pavé), polished in three stages, then rhodium plated to 0.5 µm where required. Every prong on pavé receives a 1.5 kg pull test.
Gate 6 — final QC, packing, shipping
100% visual inspection plus a 10% random caliper check. Pieces are bagged individually, SKU-labelled, carton-packed with desiccant. DDP or FOB per your instructions.
| Gate | Deliverable you approve | Typical turnaround |
|---|---|---|
| 1. CAD review | Engineered CAD file | 3 working days |
| 2. Resin prototype | Printed shape in hand | 5–7 days |
| 3. Metal sample | Set, polished, plated sample | 10–14 days |
| 4. Bulk casting | XRF report for the lot | 5–7 days |
| 5. Setting/plating | In-process photos | 8–12 days |
| 6. QC + ship | Final parcel + certs | 4–6 days |
Where our standards sit above the factory average
The industry commonly skips Gate 3 (the physical metal sample) for orders under 500 pieces. We do not — the sample is included at no tooling fee for first OEM orders. Rhodium plating at 0.5 µm versus the typical 0.3 µm adds roughly 8–12 months of white finish wear. And every lot carries an XRF strip; many factories only test the first piece of a campaign.
Match the OEM scope to your business
Opening brands (under 300 pcs): run Gates 1–3 on one hero SKU before committing to a full range. This proves the factory can hold your tolerance before you spend tooling on ten designs.
Boutiques (300–2,000 pcs): standard gated OEM. Keep the physical metal sample; it becomes your QC reference for every future reorder.
High-volume labels (5,000+ pcs): add a semi-annual engineering review and negotiate a locked pricing band for 12 months. Our long-term OEM partners also get a dedicated bench co-ordinator.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does OEM jewelry tooling cost?
For most sterling silver and moissanite pieces, CAD engineering and the printed prototype run USD 80–150, waived on orders above 500 pieces. Hard tooling for very high-volume shapes is quoted separately.
Can I supply my own CAD file?
Yes. We accept STEP, STL and Rhino files. Expect an engineering review within 3 days; roughly one in three files needs a wall-thickness or prong tweak before casting.
Do I approve the sample in hand or by photo?
We ship the physical metal sample to you. Photo approval is available for rush timelines, but in-hand approval is the gate that stops crooked-setting problems from scaling.
How long does the full OEM cycle take?
End-to-end, CAD to delivered bulk, is 35–45 working days for 500 pieces. Reorders on approved CAD drop to 12–18 days because Gates 1–3 are already locked.
Who owns the CAD and tooling after production?
You do. We return or destroy the files on request and will not reproduce your design for other buyers. This is written into the OEM agreement.
Key takeaways
- Six gated approvals; never skip the physical metal sample.
- Demand XRF on the whole lot, not just the first piece.
- 0.5 µm rhodium outlasts the industry 0.3 µm plate by nearly a year.
- Reorders reuse approved CAD and ship in 12–18 days.
Next step: send us your CAD for a free engineering review. First OEM order includes the metal sample at no tooling fee; MOQ 20 pcs per SKU.
See also private label jewelry, lost-wax casting, factory audit checklist, and all manufacturing guides.
The Wikipedia article on rhodium explains why rhodium plating is applied to white gold and silver jewellery.
