A ring that doesn't fit is a ring you'll never wear. We see it constantly: a client inherits a grandmother's ring that's a size 5, their finger is a size 7, and the ring sits in a drawer for twenty years until they finally bring it to us. Resizing sounds like it should be a simple job, and for half the rings that come across our bench, it is. For the other half, it's a careful process with real decisions along the way.
Here's what actually happens at the bench when we resize a ring, and the questions we ask before we start cutting.
First: is the ring resizable at all?
Not every ring can be resized. We turn away a surprising number of jobs because the ring design makes resizing risky. The common blockers are:
- Eternity bands with stones all the way around. If the ring is pavé-set with gems along the entire shank, cutting the band to resize it means removing and resetting several stones, and the band's structure is too thin to stretch. We'll usually suggest sizing a short adjacent section, or, more honestly, recommending the client trade it for a properly sized band.
- Ceramic, tungsten, or titanium rings. These are either too hard or too brittle to cut and re-solder cleanly. Tungsten will shatter; titanium can be cut but the solder joint doesn't take well. Most of these manufacturers tell clients from the start that the ring is not resizable.
- Laser-welded or formed bands. Some modern manufacturing techniques produce bands that can't be opened without destroying the finish.
- Vintage pieces with soldered components. An old ring with a hidden repair might fall apart if we cut into the wrong spot. We inspect these under magnification before we commit.
If we can't resize safely, we tell the client honestly. A few extra millimeters of size isn't worth cracking a sentimental ring.
Up-sizing: how we add metal
To make a ring larger, we cut through the shank (the plain back of the band) and insert a small measured piece of matching metal — a "blank" — then solder it in. The cut is made at the back of the ring, away from any stone setting, engraving, or design detail, so the repair is invisible when finished.
The amount we can add depends on the ring. A standard solitaire can usually be sized up by two to three sizes safely. Beyond that, the band becomes too thin at the point of the insertion, and the ring loses structural strength. We tell clients who need more than three sizes up that a rebuild or a new band is the better route.
There's a temptation on the bench to "stretch" a ring instead of cutting and adding metal. Stretching is done with a mandrel and a hammer, and it works for small up-sizes (half a size to a full size). We stretch only when the client's ring has no engraving and no stones set near the shank, because stretching can distort the band and pull prongs slightly out of alignment.
Down-sizing: how we remove metal
To make a ring smaller, we cut out a small wedge of the shank and solder the two ends back together. The removed wedge is calculated precisely so the finished band is round, not slightly oval. A poorly done down-size leaves an oval ring that rotates on the finger and catches on things.
Down-sizing is usually cleaner and less risky than up-sizing. We can typically take a ring down by two to three sizes with no issue. Beyond that, the band becomes too narrow at the bottom, and we'll suggest a rebuild.
The soldering step
Once the shank is cut and fitted, we flux the joint and apply a small piece of solder that matches the karat of the ring. 14K gold solder is not pure 14K gold — it's a lower-melting alloy that flows at a lower temperature than the parent metal, so we don't accidentally melt the rest of the ring. We use the lowest-karat solder that will take, to keep the joint as strong and color-matched as possible.
For platinum rings, the process is different. Platinum solder melts at nearly the same temperature as the platinum itself, so the whole job requires more skill and a hotter torch. We size platinum rings only on a dedicated platinum bench, away from any gold work, because platinum contamination ruins gold solder jobs.
Finishing and inspection
After the solder cools, we file the joint flush, sand through a progression of grits, and polish the shank to match the original finish. If the ring has a brushed or matte finish, we re-brush just the resized section so it blends. If it's engraved, we carefully mask the engraving during polishing so we don't wipe it out.
Before the ring leaves the bench, we do three checks: we measure it on a sizing mandrel to confirm the size is correct, we pull each prong with a prong tugger to make sure the heat didn't loosen any stone, and we inspect the solder joint under magnification for porosity. We've got a 12-point inspection routine that we apply to every repair, not just new pieces.
How long it takes and what it costs
A straightforward resize on a solitaire takes two to three business days in our shop. A ring with side stones, an eternity section, or a platinum band can take a week or more. Cost depends on metal, karat, and complexity, but most standard resizes fall well below the cost of buying a new band.
If your ring doesn't fit, don't let it sit in a drawer. Bring it by, let us measure it, and we'll tell you straight whether a resize is the right fix or whether you'd be better served with a different solution. We've seen too many sentimental pieces lose decades of wear because nobody wanted to cut into them. Often, the cut is invisible when we're done.
For third-party reference, the Wikipedia article on moissanite details moissanite’s discovery, optical properties and use in jewellery.
Frequently Asked Questions
What ring sizes can you supply in bulk?
US sizes 5–12 including half sizes. Send a size breakdown with your order and we cast to that curve; comfort-fit inner bands reduce resize requests.
Can I order a mixed size run instead of one size?
Yes. Mixed runs are standard for wholesale: specify quantity per size and we pack and label by size at no extra labor cost.
What is the MOQ for custom ring designs?
50 pieces per design for existing molds; 100–300 pieces when a new mold or CAD model is required.
How should I price rings for retail margin?
Most partners use a 3–4x markup on FOB cost for sterling and 2.5–3x for moissanite solos, which keeps landed cost under 30% of retail.
